Abruzzo

There's something enchanting about Abruzzo, a region in Italy that remains largely unexplored, despite its rich wine culture. The spaces here are expansive, the mountains loom large, and the valleys plunge deep into the earth. This rugged, assertive landscape is home to equally rugged, assertive wines that tell a story of self-reliance and fearlessness. It's a different kind of freedom that you experience when you're immersed in such awe-inspiring landscapes.

Our journey brought us from the towering Gran Sasso massif into a high mountain valley known as La Peligna. The valley was a lush green tapestry, thanks to the plentiful springtime rains. We found ourselves surrounded by ancient ruins on the hillsides, the road occasionally blocked by herds of sheep, with the afternoon temperatures melting away under a dark cloud hovering over a distant peak. It was a wild, untamed arena, a perfect setting for crafting wildly-exceptional wines.

We met at his cantina first. Simone Romano rolled up in his 4x4 and smiled ear to ear, an immediate hug of introduction. No pretense, just joy that someone came to find him in his place. He showed us the simple winery, at this point a shared space with a couple of other small producers making wines in each corner. Stainless steel tanks, small pneumatic press and some open top fermenters...basta. The tanks were all empty as he'd bottled the vintage a month before our visit. 

The Candeloro vineyard is in the even sleepier mountain hamlet of Vittorito some 600 meters above sea level clinging to the mountain. The ~ 3 hectare parcel took him nearly 3 years to find and it is made up of old vine Camplese bianco (the oldest and most historic ancestor of Trebbiano d'Abruzzo that comes from these interior mountains) and Peligno (the mountain ancestor of the modern day Montepulciano we've come to know), dating back to the 50's and 60's. The soils here are a stark contrast to those found in the hills of Pescara (where Vini Rabasco is located) - rich in rocky granitic deposits descending from the mountain mixed with clay and sand.  

The vines are sturdy, their trunks dug deep into the rugged landscape, having weathered harsh winters and scorching summers. Simone pointed out his favorite corners of the parcel, especially those with some shade from the nearby forest. He also showed us a spot he hopes to plant himself in the next few years.

Simone's wines are a pure reflection of him, his vision, and his place. They are pristine, alive, and clean, telling the story of this hidden corner of Abruzzo. These are mountain wines, self-made with a sense of independence and clarity that is rare to find. Firstly, a white wine of direct press Camplese (aka Trebbiano d'Abruzzo). Second, a later-harvested skin-macerated version that is elegant and pure without the pomp and circumstance of an "orange wine". Third, a proper "Cerasuolo" rosato that is perhaps the most vivid expression of the Candeloro wines at this point, and finally, a lythe, lifted Montepulciano (aka Peligno) that is just made to be enjoyed by all (especially with some Arrosticini in your hand).   

The name "Candeloro" is a family name, the original surname of his grandmothers on both sides. "Parò", the name given to his cuvees, is a term for a fishing boat pilot, a title only given to the most experienced captains in the historic fishing port of Pescara. Parò was also the nickname of his grandfather, who was the most respected pilot of them all. Today, Simone and his family are still a significant part of the fishing community there. Simone's brother, Carmine, runs a fantastic seafood restaurant called "Da Bacone", a must-visit when in Pescara.

There's more to the story yet to come, including Simone's plans for a Cantina of his own. This is a family with important contributions to this part of Abruzzo, and Candeloro is the new heart of it all.