Poggio Bbaranello

 

Lago di Bolsena, Lazio


In 2019 Silvia Pagliarola and her wife Lisa Gentili vinified their first harvest of grapes, grown on a sunsoaked hill just south of Lake Bolsena in northern Lazio. It was both the culmination of many years of preparation and the beginning of their new winemaking adventure together.

Since 2009 Silvia and Lisa have been working the land of their small 14 hectare farm -- 4.5 of which are planted to vines -- while the rest of the land is dedicated to ancient grains and unspoiled woodlands. Located on the outskirts of Marta, a village on the southern rim of the crater Lake Bolsena at ~450 meters, Poggio Bbaranello is the realization of a dream and a labor of love from two of the most passionate winemakers in this remarkable wine region.

Lake Bolsena is a magical place. Located just 100km north of Rome, this ancient crater lake has quickly become the site of a new winemaking scene that is perhaps the most talked about in Italy in recent memory. A combination of unique volcanic soils, rare and interesting native grapes, an ancient winemaking past and a quintessential pastoral culture make it truly special.

Poggio Bbarenello specializes in white wines and uses only the native cultivars that are particular to the history of their micro-region. The grape varieties are all indigenous and showcase the unique character of the Lago di Bolsena region. Procanico, Roscetto and Malvasia are planted on various soil types including tufo, limestone, volcanic basalt, sand and clay, at exposures on the windswept hill surrounding the cantina-casa. Ciliegiolo and sangiovese are used in minuscule quantities to make small amounts of red wine. Biodynamic and organic farming practices are incorporated into their holistic approach to agriculture and winemaking.

At Bbaranello the winemaking is incredibility focused and detailed. All fermentations are done with native, wild yeasts and sulfur is used at an absolute minimum, only if and when needed. Various techniques of skin maceration and direct press are used as well as a combination of aging vessels including clay anfora, stainless steel, fiberglass resin and old oak/chestnut barrels.

Silvia and Lisa have quietly become protagonists in this micro-regional revolution and they are breaking the trend of conventional wisdom at every turn. Their wines display a purity and depth you'll be hard pressed to find elsewhere. They are not simply following the trends of the day, making low-alcohol, high skin contact wines for the sake of it. Rather they are crafting wines with incredible depth and precision, all without pretense or pretext. The wines of Bbaranello are truly a discovery well worth making!